• By: admin
• Oct 05, 2026
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One night a year, a whole riverfront glows with almost a million lamps. That night is Dev Deepawali in Varanasi, and in 2026 it falls on Tuesday, 24 November.

If you’ve only ever seen Diwali at home, this is Diwali on a completely different scale.

What is Dev Deepawali?

Dev Deepawali means “the Diwali of the gods.” It’s celebrated on Kartik Purnima, the full moon about 15 days after regular Diwali.

According to tradition, this is the night the gods come down to bathe in the Ganga. It also celebrates Lord Shiva’s victory over the demon Tripurasura. The lamps along the river are a welcome for the gods.

What you’ll see

• Almost a million diyas (small oil lamps), by some counts.
• 84 ghats, the stone steps leading down to the river, all lit up.
• About 7 km of riverfront, from Assi Ghat to Raj Ghat.
• The Ganga Aarti, a fire ceremony with priests, bells and chanting.
• Floating lamps drifting down the river.

The best way to watch: from a boat

Standing on the ghats is amazing, but very crowded. The best view is from the water. From a boat, you see the full line of lamps, and their reflection doubles the glow. People often say the ghats look like a staircase of light.

Boats usually leave around 5:30 pm. Book in advance, because every boat in the city is taken that evening.

How to get there

Varanasi has its own airport, Lal Bahadur Shastri Airport, with flights from Delhi, Mumbai and other Indian cities. From the Gulf, most people connect through Delhi or Mumbai. There are also trains from across India.

From the airport to the old city takes about an hour by car, more on festival day.

Tips for Dev Deepawali

• Book your stay months ahead. Hotels near the ghats fill up fast and prices jump.
• Arrive a day early. Roads close and traffic is heavy on the day itself.
• Book your boat early. Shared boats are cheaper, private boats give you more space.
• Keep your phone and wallet close. Crowds are huge.
• Dress modestly. This is a religious festival. Shoulders and knees covered is a good rule.
• Add Sarnath. The place where the Buddha gave his first sermon is just 10 km away and recently became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Quick facts

• Varanasi is one of the oldest continuously lived-in cities in the world.
• It’s also known as Kashi and Banaras.
• Dashashwamedh Ghat hosts the most famous evening Ganga Aarti, every single night of the year.

A simple 3-day Varanasi plan

• Day 1: Arrive, check in, and watch the evening Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat to get a feel for the riverfront.
• Day 2, Dev Deepawali: Sunrise boat ride for calm, golden light. Rest in the afternoon. Be on your boat by 5:30 pm for the lamps.
• Day 3: Morning trip to Sarnath, then walk the old lanes and try local food like kachori, lassi and Banarasi paan.

Even outside the festival, a sunrise boat ride in Varanasi is one of the most memorable things you can do in India.

Your challenge

How many ghats light up for Dev Deepawali? 8, 24, 84 or 840? Answer on my post at @explor_shan.

Then try the AI prompt challenge from the same post and create your own glowing Varanasi riverfront.

FAQ

Is Dev Deepawali the same as Diwali?
No. It comes about 15 days after Diwali, on the full moon of the Kartik month.

What time do the lamps get lit?
Around sunset. The best glow is from dusk until about 8 or 9 pm.

Can non-Hindus attend?
Yes. Visitors from all backgrounds come to watch. Just be respectful during the ceremonies.

Save this for 24 November and tag who you’d share the boat with.

Explore with me every day. Follow @explor_shan on Instagram for the daily challenge, and comment EXPLORE on any post to get the guide in your DMs.